Planning a trip to the Shetland Islands? Whether you’re visiting for the world-famous Up Helly Aa fire festival, chasing dramatic coastal landscapes, or exploring Viking history, this comprehensive Shetland Islands travel guide covers everything you need to know — from what to see and do to where to stay, eat, and drink.
While many travellers visit in summer for long daylight hours and tons of wildlife, winter brings its own magic, especially during Up Helly Aa. After spending a full week exploring the islands, one thing is certain: Shetland deserves more than a quick visit.
Where Are the Shetland Islands?
The Shetland Islands are the northernmost islands in the British Isles, located around 170 km north of mainland Scotland. The Orkney Islands lie about 80 km to the south, while the Faroe Islands sit roughly 280 km to the north.
Shetland is made up of around 100 islands, 16 of which are inhabited. The largest island is known simply as Mainland, home to the capital town of Lerwick and the former capital, Scalloway. Over half of Shetland’s population (around 23,000 people) lives within 10 km of Lerwick.
Fun fact: The northernmost point of the UK isn’t actually on Unst — it’s Out Stack, a rocky islet north of the island.
A Brief History of Shetland
Although Shetland is part of Scotland today, its roots are deeply Norse. The islands were under Scandinavian rule for centuries, and Viking influence is still evident in place names, culture, and festivals. Scattered throughout the isles you will find Bronze and Iron Age ruins, Pictish settlements, Viking longhouse ruins, and numerous archeological sites.
Unlike Orkney or the Outer Hebrides, Shetland doesn’t have major standing stone circles, but what it lacks in stone monuments, it makes up for in dramatic coastal scenery.
Lerwick & Mainland Shetland
Exploring Lerwick
Lerwick is Shetland’s largest town and the heart of the islands. It’s compact, walkable, and makes an excellent base for exploring. Some of the top things to do in Lerwick include the Shetland Museum and Archives, a must-visit for history, maritime heritage, and Viking exhibits, and the nearby 17th central Fort Charlotte.
Don’t miss walking down the cobblestone Commercial Street – there are some lovely shops and cafes – or along the harbour, where you may spot seals, birdlife, or even the elusive orca.
However, don’t spend your entire trip in town, as Shetland’s magic lies in its remote corners.
Mainland Highlights
Mainland Shetland is packed with history and wild scenery. Two of my favourite stops are Jarlshof and Old Scatness. Jarlshof is one of Scotland’s most important archaeological sites, spanning 4,000+ years, and what I find so unique about it is that from the top of the ruins of the manor house, you can see Bronze Age stone houses, Iron Age walls and a broch, Pictish symbols, Viking longhouses, a medieval farmhouse, an early 20th century airport, and modern day houses.
The nearby Old Scatness settlement is an impressive Iron Age village with ruins of a broch, wheelhouse, and a circular fort.
Just south of Jarlshof, at the end of the road, is the Sumburgh Head, the southernmost point of the islands. Here, you can walk up to the Stevenson lighthouse, which boasts amazing views out toward Orkney. On a good summer’s day you can see puffins and other bird life in this area.
West of Lerwick is the former capital of Scalloway. Small and quaint, Scallow is most known for its Castle, built in 1600 by Patrick Stewart, Earl of Orkney. The castle wasn’t his main residence – he preferred his home in Orkney – but was used for parliament meetings. But just two years later, Shetland lairds complained to the king about him, and he was imprisoned at Edinburgh Castle and executed in 1615.
Nearby, the Scalloway Museum tells the story of the clandestine “Shetland Bus” operations during WWII, which were secret missions between Shetland and Norway that supported the resistance movement. North of Lerwick, at Lunna Voe, is the house at which the operations were coordinated.
North and west of Lerwick is Brae, the gateway to Northmavine. Brae boasts two pubs and a really great little fish and chips shop.
Island Hopping in Shetland
Hiring a car is essential for exploring Shetland properly. Several islands are connected by bridges, while others require short car ferries. Ferries run frequently, though services to smaller or uninhabited islands (like Mousa) are seasonal.
Easily accessible islands include Burra, Trondra, Northmavine, Yell, Unst, Bressay, and Whalsay.
Northmavine: Wild Cliffs & Dramatic Seas
Though connected to the mainland, Northmavine feels like another world. The geology shifts dramatically, and the western cliffs are among the most photogenic in Shetland.
Visit Eshaness Lighthouse and the nearby cliffs for blowholes, sea stacks, and coastal arches, and rugged volcanic cliffs battered by Atlantic waves.
On stormy days, the contrast of black rock and emerald sea is unforgettable.
Burra: Meet the Famous Shetland Ponies
Burra is a short drive from Lerwick and a great place to encounter authentic Shetland Pony heritage (note: they don’t usually wander up to strangers!).
Local breeders and riding schools sometimes offer pony experiences where visitors can brush, learn about, and — for children — ride these iconic animals.
Yell & Unst: The UK’s Northern Frontier
To reach Unst, you’ll ferry from Toft to Yell, then continue north via another short crossing.
Why Visit Unst?
Unst is the northernmost inhabited island in the UK and offers a Viking longship replica and heritage sites, white sand beaches with turquoise waters, the Shetland Reel — the UK’s northernmost gin distillery, and The Final Checkout — the northernmost convenience store
Despite its remote feel, Unst has a thriving creative and craft community.
Bressay, Noss & Whalsay
Bressay
Bressay is just across from Lerwick and ideal for walking, birdwatching, and coastal views.
Noss
Noss National Nature Reserve features mile-long seabird cliffs and thousands of nesting birds. It’s one of the UK’s most accessible seabird colonies.
Whalsay
Whalsay is the centre of Shetland’s fishing industry and home to a museum dedicated to the Hanseatic trade era.
Up Helly Aa: Shetland’s Famous Fire Festival
Up Helly Aa is Shetland’s legendary Viking-inspired fire festival, held annually on the last Tuesday of January to mark the end of the Yule season. Despite its seemingly-ancient roots, the festivals sprang from bored young men dragging barrels of tar through the streets, following their return from the Napoleonic Wars.
The modern festival includes a Guizer Jarl and his squad (chosen years in advance), along with thousands of other men – and now women – dressed in costumes, carrying kerosene-lit torches through the streets before throwing them at a replica Viking galley in the middle of the park. (Some local Up Helly Aa festivals see the galley set out to sea while burning.) Following the burning, locals and tourists alike adjourn to local halls to dance through the night. The squads process through each hall as the night progresses, with the Jarl Squad being the most anticipated.
It’s one of Europe’s most spectacular winter festivals — and yes, accommodation books up extremely early. Even wild winter weather rarely stops it.
Where to Stay in the Shetland Islands
There are very very very few options in Shetland! Accommodation options include a few small hotels in Lerwick centre, guesthouses & B&Bs, self-catering cottages outside of town, hostels, and camping (summer only).
A popular option is Busta House Hotel in Brae — a historic country house overlooking a voe, with an excellent restaurant.
Tip: Book far in advance for summer and Up Helly Aa. The best places fill quickly.
What to Eat & Drink in Shetland
Shetland’s food scene punches well above its weight. Thanks to the surrounding waters, seafood is exceptional, but there’s also artisan chocolate, fudge, local lamb, and award-winning gin. If you’re visiting over Up Helly Aa, look out for a mini food festival at the Shetland Museum, where you can try all sorts of local goodies.
Some of my favourite places to eat in Mainland are Fjara Cafe, Frankie’s Fish & Chips, The Dowry, and Peerie Cafe.
Outside Lerwick, dining options are more limited in winter but expand during summer.
When Is the Best Time to Visit Shetland?
I personally don’t think there’s a wrong time to go, though winter definitely has its downsides! Summer (May–August) boasts long daylight hours, puffins and seabirds, easier access to remote islands, and more cafés and seasonal businesses open.
Winter (January) boasts the iconic Up Helly Aa festival, moody coastal landscapes, fewer tourists, and a true local atmosphere, though outside of UHA you will find that a lot of places are closed.
There’s no bad time — just different experiences.
Final Thoughts: Is Shetland Worth Visiting?
Absolutely. The Shetland Islands combine Viking heritage, wild North Atlantic scenery, world-class wildlife, and a strong local identity unlike anywhere else in Scotland.
Whether you’re road-tripping across Mainland, sailing to Unst, standing atop Eshaness cliffs in gale-force winds, or watching a Viking galley burn at Up Helly Aa, Shetland leaves a lasting impression.
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